Dyna-Gro Grow is just simply one of the best fertilizers around. No apology necessary - really ...... and no need for guilt. Although your monstera can tolerate a slight variation, it would be ideal to maintain a pH level of 6 for ideal growth. To be fair, perlite has an uneven surface, which would add some air porosity, but the small fraction of air porosity added due to perlites irregular surface can never be even close the the volume displaced by the particle because of its closed cell nature. Where is the advantage in adding the bark. Well, Al, my monstera is in potting soil and perlite because I potted it up before I knew about 5:1:1 mix. This makes perfect sense. Monsteras are fantastic houseplants. Faster-drying, high-capillary ingredients get great results despite holding more water, Really? Monstera Adansonii leaves turning yellow: either too much water or not enough light. Keep reading for some suggestions on what to consider when it comes to pots and soil to keep your Monstera looking its best. I find it easier to add the support when the plant is small, so it can be trained to grow up the pole from the beginning. You need to be aware of this balance and stop simplistically focusing on just particle size. If you were talking about the 'weight' of soils for hanging plants, the 5:1:1 mix is much lighter than peat-based soils at container capacity (when holding all the water it can). Also, many people dislike the look of plastic pots and prefer something more decorative. If your Monstera is getting large and top-heavy or is no longer growing vertically, a moss pole (or another support, like a trellis) can help. Use it regularly on you Monstera deliciosa plant and ALL of your tropicals! If I was currently growing PM, it would be in the 5:1:1 mix. If you don't want to be in an ever-lasting contest between you and your soil choice for control over your plants' vitality, setting as your minimum standard the ability to water to beyond saturation (so you're flushing the soil of mineral salts build-up whenever you water) w/o the soil punishing your plant in retaliation for your thoughtfulness is a very good idea. I’ll check it out. Most store-bought potting mixes will fit the bill but could be modified slightly to make the mix quicker draining. Terracotta pots are another option, but they have the opposite problem. If there’s not enough soil (i.e., roots are filling most of the pot), you will find you have to water too frequently. Many, many types of mixes will work well for these, as long as you stay away from the cheap home center mixes that pack a pot like mud, and only give air to the roots for a tiny window of time if you carefully withhold water down to the last possible day. He has 3 new leaves unfurling at all times. When we reach a 50/50 mixture of peat/bark, there is still more than enough peat to fill every all space between bark particles with peat. However, your claim this will go away in a taller pot is unfounded and makes it obvious you’ve never used “High Porosity” mixes with their high levels of structural/drainage material which prevent this. Yesterday, a bunch of mould popped up on the soil on my plant too, and the gnats seemed at all all time high! They don’t. Please help. Monsteras need a container that isn’t too large and must have drainage holes to drain excess water. Although they grow quickly, Monsteras can usually go 2-3 years before needing to be repotted. I bought mine over two years ago, when it looked just like yours. however, I can’t seem to find any posts that actually explain what they are and how to make them. Has anyone planted any Monsteras or Philodendrons in Cactus soil or do you think there would be any adverse results? A grower can start with 3 or 4 ingredients and combine them in a way that produces a superb grow medium, but the same ingredients can be combined to produce a medium which is inherently limiting. You probably have the idea by now that over-watering your Monstera is one of the worst things you can do. Why Your Monstera Deliciosa Is Crying, Sweating and Dripping Water, How to Save a ZZ Plant From Root Rot: A Step By Step Guide, Can You Propagate Pilea Plants from Leaves? However, they can be a bit picky about overwatering. Ideally, monstera prefers slightly acidic soil with a pH ranging between 5.5 to 7.0. And even then, I can barely keep up with the watering it demands in the summer — indoors, in an air-conditioned house. my pathos fell about 4 feet to the ground. I agree with 5:1:1. The decades of results make your theories about why they can’t work just silly prattle. You think peat is just that stuff you tried one time at Home Depot. Let's pretend I didn't say anything. They allow for many more and finer feeder roots. It’s also common to see roots emerging from the drainage holes when the roots get too big.eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'thehealthyhouseplant_com-large-mobile-banner-1','ezslot_6',113,'0','0'])); When you are repotting your Monstera, it is generally best to just go one size bigger (from a 6″ pot to an 8″ pot, for example). I used a well-draining cactus/succulent mix with some peat moss mixed in. Note that terracotta can be useful to help prevent overwatering because it absorbs moisture from the soil. One would think the o/a air porosity would increase significantly ...... but it doesn't. Don't forget ht of the soil column significantly impacts loft of peat - the weight/ gravitational potential of media components (and the water they hold) near the top of the soil column pushing down on material nearer the bottom of the soil column. It’s best to thoroughly water this plant during the summers, ensuring the soil surface is dried out between waterings. You’ve got it almost right. “In my considerable experience…” You must be joking here. Example - start with a pint of peat in a quart jar, then add a pint of perlite. We are a member of several affiliate advertising programs designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to external sites. By providing your Monstera with well-draining, loose soil in a pot that is correctly sized, you will be a step ahead in minimizing your chances of giving it too much water. Observe the color of the cheese plant leaf to balance the watering frequency. Being kept in a small pot will restrict how much the plant grows, but it should not directly cause any damage. It also has alfalfa meal, kelp meal, a very little of 3 kinds of lime (slow, medium, and fast-acting), and a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer. Super great to know all that. There is another version of these, the super-soil style mixes with heavy organics like bat guano and fish meal, and many other smelly ingredients. For the future, if you want a premium mix at a hydroponics store with both excellent drainage and water retention, there should be several with the words "high porosity" or "HP" in name. Fine-vs-coarse is not a great comparison of soil ingredients. Also, peat is not peat: there are grades you haven’t tried yet in these mixes with even more air-holding power. It's wrong to pretend such authority about them. By comparing the drying rate of Leca to crushed Leca, or Turface to Turface fines, that is exactly the simplistic focus on just particle size I warned about. Then fill a similar pot with the same amount (by weight) of uncrushed Leca balls. From what I can tell, you are the one that created the 5:1:1 mix and gritty mix that everyone refers to in these forums. If your plant is too top-heavy, it might fall over (or be knocked over). Airy means that pockets of air can form in the soil. Glazed ceramic pots (with drainage holes) are another excellent option for indoor Monsteras. You said it. I will share a Monstera soil recipe that I used for my Monstera deliciosa that has . Terracotta gives your plant a sturdier base but can be difficult to move around when you need to. Those are from someone who just looked up “grades of peat’ on Google after my last post to try to imply fake expertise without explicitly claiming it. You’ve been slandering great products and you’re just wrong. Add a dozen to a pint of peat - see if the o/a air porosity increases or decreases. It didn't lose any leaves after my hacking away the majority of potted roots. If you really feel the need to compare, you could use what we all want as our final goal here, actual houseplants. The fact is, folks flock to fora searching for resolution of issues directly related to excess water retention in soils primarily comprised of peat, coir, and other fine ingredients, it's undeniable. If it’s beneath direct light for too long, the leaves will end up burning and turning brown. Then I repotted it with new soil and buried the ends to some of the lower aerial roots. I know traditionally you should repot when it's dormant, however this guy has been growing like crazy since I got him and I don't see him (or want him!) During winters, it doesn’t need much water, just occasionally mist. Monstera Adansonii Repotting: The Soil Mix To Use & Steps To Take Monstera Adansonii, or Swiss Cheese Vine, has lacy leaves and is quite the popular houseplant these days. Not just mindless dupes blindly believing marketing hype on a bag as you imagine, but measured trial and error for years to precisely maximize square-foot profit from container gardening. Every packager of retail grow media seriously pushes the limits of veracity in order to capture the unsuspecting buyer, and this extends to fertilizers and hundreds and hundreds of other products which target hobby growers. With newer knowledge the saying should be ‘grow the fungus, not just the roots’. . Unlike some other houseplants that can be tricky to keep happy, Monsteras are forgiving of a certain amount of neglect and mistreatment. Monstera Adansonii can survive in different types of soil. It moves water from the perched table at the bottom up throughout the pot and to the top where it can evaporate quickly. If you want to go the route of combining a regular potting mix with a succulent mixture for quicker drainage, Hoffman’s is my go-to succulent soil. Since you’ve never used premium HP mixes, you aren’t aware of how easy it is to avoid overwatering them. To keep the Monstera adansonii soil ideal for growth, opt for peat-based soil with drainage holes. If you see the leaves drooping, check the moisture and add water accordingly. I didn't even use any perlite or other amendments. eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'thehealthyhouseplant_com-banner-1','ezslot_4',110,'0','0'])); The frequency with which you water your Monstera will depend on the size of the pot, ambient temperature and humidity in your home, and soil type. Sand, as most of us think of sand (play sand, beach sand, torpedo sand, .......) is simply another ingredient with the same tendency as peat or other fine particulates to fill every potential air space between the larger particles that would prove to be a superior base for your soil. You’ve never grown plants in them. Potting mix is actually a soilless mixture (which is confusing since the term “potting soil” is so commonly used). If the soil is too damp and too dense, there is no way for oxygen to circulate around the roots. For Monsteras, you should not need to add any soil amendments to change soil pH. They have unique structures. The two primary needs for this plant are adequate light and not to be overwatered. Keep your plant in bright indirect light and humidity above 60%. Also, you’re from Michigan? But as the plant does require some moisture retention, opting for a high-peat potting mix is a good choice. I usually put in a thin layer of worm castings as fertilizer. You can read my article about moss poles for Monsteras for many more details on how to do it. For mine, I use standard potting mix, sifted with a grate to get rid of all of the big bark pieces, then add a bit of coarse sand (not too much), then a bit of perlite. This puts it in the range of slightly acidic to neutral, and the vast majority of commercially-available potting mixes will already fall into this category. Or, start with dry clay and dry sand and allow each to absorb an equal measure of water - see which dries first. 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